Better Cotton Sees Sustainable Future for Uzbekistan’s Cotton Industry
The international sustainability initiative Better Cotton has identified promising prospects for Uzbekistan’s cotton sector as reforms reshape the once-controversial industry.
For years, Uzbekistan’s cotton was excluded from many Western markets due to widespread state-imposed forced and child labour. However, following sweeping structural changes and the end of state quotas, the country is gradually rebuilding its reputation as a responsible cotton producer. According to the World Bank, state involvement in cotton production has significantly decreased, bringing forced labour practices to near elimination.
Private clusters take over production
Today, cotton in Uzbekistan is cultivated by privately-owned clusters that operate integrated production chains. These enterprises receive land allocations from the government under the condition that they not only grow cotton but also process it, creating a value-added supply chain. The United States Department of Labor estimates the country’s annual cotton output at roughly 1 mln tonnes.
«Today, sustainable agricultural methods, trade facilitations and decent work are no longer parallel efforts, they are parts of one sustainable system,» said Paul Schumacher, cotton project manager at GIZ (German Agency for International Cooperation) Uzbekistan.
Since August 2024, Better Cotton and GIZ have expanded their collaborative training efforts. The updated programme introduces producers to regenerative farming techniques, principles of social responsibility and new requirements under Uzbekistan’s revised labour legislation.
Ethics and oversight at the core of certification
Better Cotton now conducts pre-seasonal assessments of clusters applying for certification. This process includes interviews and surveys with both management and workers, along with an evaluation of governance, financial viability and business ethics to determine overall risk and performance.
Clusters already holding active licences undergo regular reviews carried out by trained Better Cotton personnel. These internal checks are designed to flag potential labour issues, which, if detected, can prompt more extensive audits from independent labour rights organisations.
«The Uzbek cotton sector has tremendous potential to be a leader in the production of more sustainably produced cotton. This can only be achieved through collaboration, robust and transparent processes, and perseverance,» said Katerina Gorbunova, head of Better Cotton’s programme in Uzbekistan.
Better Cotton aims to build on the momentum already seen in the sector by continuing to collaborate closely with local partners. The organisation says it is well placed to support Uzbekistan’s shift towards sustainable cotton and remains committed to working with stakeholders nationwide to turn this vision into concrete results.
Kursiv reported last year that Better Cotton has begun monitoring cotton harvesting and processing standards at Uzbek enterprises.
